I’ve always thought that the most insecure climbs are the most attractive. If I know I can do something, it’s not so interesting.
Jeff Lowe, b. 1950
1979
South Face, Ama Dablam, first ascent, solo
South Ridge, Ama Dablam, second ascent, with Martin Boysen, David Breashears, Lhapka Dorje, Tom Frost, George Lowe, Peter Pilafian and Jonathan Wright
Black Elk V 5.11a, Warbonnet, southeast face, Wind River Range, first ascent, with Charlie Fowler, one of the best free climbs in the region
Feather Buttress IV 5.10+, Warbonnet Peak (Wind River Range), first ascent, with Charlie Fowler, the crux was 40-foot, unprotected
Northeast Coloir Gully, Grand Teton, new route, with Charlie Fowler, at the time the hardest ice route in the Tetons
1978
North Ridge, Latok I (7144m), attempt to 6995 m, with George Lowe, Jim Donini, Michael Kennedy
Bridalveil Falls III WI6, Colorado, first solo ascent
1975
Grand Central Coloir, Mount Kitchener, north face, new route, with Michael Weis
1974
Bridalveil Falls III WI6, Colorado, with Mike Weis – the ascent transformed ice climbing: before vertical ice was something to be avoided, not sought
Isaac V 5.9, Court of the Partiarchs, south face, Zion, new route, with George Lowe
West Buttress V 5.9, Squaretop, Wind River Range, first ascent, with George Lowe and Kent Christensen
1973
North Face III 5.7, Wetterhorn Peak, Colorado, first ascent, with Paul Hogan
East Face V 5.9, Keeler Needle, Sierra Nevada, new route, with John Weiland
North Face to the West Summit, Andromeda, Rockies, new solo route
Watchman IV 5.9 A1, West Face, Zion, new route, with Mike Weis
1972
West Face IV 5.8, Grand Teton, first winter ascent, with George Lowe
West Face IV 5.8, Grand Teton, new variantion in solo climb
North Face V, 5.9, Mt. Slesse, North Cascades, with Rob Keisel
1971
Moonlight Buttress V 5.9, A3, Zion, with Mike Weis
Haystack V 5.10 A3, North Tower, Wind River Range, with Jeff Heath
1970
North Ridge IV 5.7 90o, Mt. Temple, Rockies, first ascent, with George Lowe
North Face V 5.9 A3, Warrior I, Wind River Range, Wyoming, first ascent, with George Lowe
Angel’s Landing V, 5.9, A3, North Face, Zion, with Cactus Bryan
1969
Salathé Wall, El Capitan, seventh ascent, with George Lowe
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